Hardiplank Installation Nzxt
Installing fiber cement siding (FCS)—such as —is easier than you might think, though there are some important differences from traditional wood siding. Installation instructions may vary depending on the manufacturer, and check with your local building inspector for any code requirements. Safety First Always follow these safety precautions when installing fiber cement siding:.
Wear safety glasses when cutting and nailing FCS. Use ear protection when cutting siding with a circular saw. Cutting FCS with a circular saw creates a large amount of dust which can lead to the incurable lung disease silicosis. Always cut siding outside and use a dust collecting saw hooked to a shop vac if possible. Wear a NIOSH approved N-95 dust mask or respirator when cutting FCS. Storage and Handling.
La boussole on fait comme on a dit rar online. Inspect siding carefully for damage when it arrives. Store off the ground, making sure it is flat and well supported. Keep it dry until it has been installed. Carry pieces on edge to prevent breaking. Support siding along its length when cutting. Prep Work.
Sheath walls with plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), or foam. Cover sheathing with housewrap or felt paper. Pop chalk lines to mark the location of studs. Cutting Siding.
Cutting fiber cement siding with a circular saw. Circular Saw: While this is the most common method of cutting, it produces the most dust. Use a polycrystalline diamond toothed blade made for cutting FCS. Cut from the back side using a rafter square as a guide for right angle cuts. Several pieces may be stacked and cut at the same time. Fiber Cement Shears: Special handheld electric shears can be used to make straight and curved cuts. An attachment called the converts an electric drill into fiber cement shears.
When using shears, cut with the back of the siding facing up. Jigsaw: When fitted with a carbide coated blade, a jigsaw can be used to cut holes and curves. Cut from the back of the siding.
Scoring: Fiber cement siding can be scored and snapped like drywall, though the cuts are not very smooth. Score the face of the siding then pull up to break. A carbide tipped scoring knife lasts much longer than a standard utility knife blade. Fastening Siding Fiber cement siding can be nailed by hand or with a pneumatic nailer. It can also be attached using corrosion resistant screws. Use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails.
Nails should penetrate through the sheathing and at least 1” into studs. Position nails ¾” to 1” from the edge of the siding. Siding can either be blind nailed at the top or face nailed at the bottom. Use roofing nails for blind nailing and siding nails for face nailing. Installing Trim. Putting up trim before installing fiber cement siding. Begin by installing the inside and outside corners on the wall.
These can be made from wood, vinyl, or thicker fiber cement products such as. Corners should be at least ¼” thicker than two stacked pieces of siding to allow room for caulking. Installing Siding Fiber cement siding should be installed 6” or more above the grade level of the house with a 1”– 2” gap between horizontal surfaces like decks, steps, or adjacent roofs.
Flash above doors and windows, leaving a ¼” gap between the flashing and siding. If you’re working alone, can be used to support the siding while you nail it. Blind nailing fiber cement siding. Begin by attaching a 1¼” wide strip of FCS 1/8” above the bottom of the first row to provide the proper angle for the siding. Next, nail the first row of siding into the studs, leaving 1/8” gaps at the corner boards to allow for caulking. Blind nailing is preferable to face nailing, since any nail heads are hidden by the next row of siding.
Nails do not need to be predrilled except near the ends. Center joints over studs unless special metal are used. Joints should be butted loosely together with a 4” wide strip of 30 pound felt positioned behind each one. Make sure the felt overhangs the previous row of siding to keep water from running behind it if the caulking fails.
Each row of siding should overlap by 1¼” or more. A spacer stick with a notch cut the length of the exposed part of the siding makes alignment easy. Use a square or level to check that the rows line up at corners. When notching the siding around doors and windows, hold it in place and mark each end.
To determine the depth of the notch, hook the spacer stick on the previous row of siding and measure from the top of the stick to the window or door unit. When cutting angles on gables, start by cutting a piece of scrap siding or wood to the proper angle then use it to mark each piece. To measure the top row of siding on horizontal eaves, hook the spacer stick on the previous row and measure up to the eave, then rip the siding to width.
Recently purchased a modular home which has metal siding on it. I want to replace the existing siding with cement board siding. I have been told that the framing in this age home is made up of 2X2’s not 2X4’s.
I plan to remove the metal siding to prevent moisture build-up. Q1)Is it permissible to cover the 2X2 framing with rigid foam prior to installing the cement board? Q2)If the foam is OK, does it also need to be wrapped prior to siding? Q3) Can screws be utilized for attachment to prevent inside drywall damage caused by hammering?
Q4) Will the siding provide the structural integrity needed. Thanks for the input!. Bruce Richardson Says. We had cement board siding and skirting put on our brand new manufactured home in the San Diego area of CA. It is painted.
I want to put a planting bed in front of the home for low water succulents. Since the home sits up so high, I want to make the bed a raised bed using a small rock wall to hold the soil. Can I mound the soil up against the cement board 6-8 inches high?
There will not be a lot of moisture because the plants are low water succulents, but it will impede air flo to the cement board. If that is ill-advised, how can I achieve the desired effect? Can I layer plastic moisture barrier then cement board like in a shower or some other product? Thanks, Patty. WalterAA Says. I recently addressed issues on a punch list for a building my company built. Much of it included poor exterior caulking and interior drywall damage.
The exterior walls consist of Hardi Plank over exterior sheetrock on metal studs. The siding is screwed and I noticed sagging and waving. It seems odd that the siding is over drywall as there seems to be too much margin for play as drywall does not support sheer very well. Is this a good method or will I be constantly sent back to fix?. R Ranch Says. Take small pry bar containing flat end; gently pry loose good fiberboard sheet above the piece you want to replace(about one inch away from fiberboard that is to be removed) then use cutting tool to cut nails away so that new replacement board can be inserted to replace the rotten fiberboard. Nail and Caulk new board.
Note: If you own a MultiMaster Cutting tool you can just cut out the rotten or damaged portion of the board you are replacing and insert the new piece instead of replacing an eight or twelve section of board. Enjoy the project!. Heather Frank Says. I purchased my new home in South Carolina in November of 2010.The home had set not sold for about three years previous of our purchase due to the economic downturn. It has hardi plank siding on it and I am having problems with water coming in at some of the windows when it rains. There are joints in the siding above the windows that leak. I have inspected the joints and it appears that they were not caulked or it has fallen out due to contraction or expansion.
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Only the house wrap shows thru the joint. How do I repair this to prevent more water damage in the future. I am not a professional by no means but it appears that the siding was put on by unprofessional contractors. Joe Says.
I too also live in Hawaii with a single wall redwood T&G siding, no studs. Planning on wrapping home with hardy plank but wanted to make sure using the short roofing nails (to prevent interior exposure, as my redwood thickness is measuring 5/8 and the hardy thickness is 5/16, total of 15/16 thickness) directly into the redwood wall will be sufficient. As John mentioned above, I plan on wrapping the exterior with tyvek homewrap and trimming off, then painting hardy plank and blind nailing a 7″ reveal. My exsisting redwood t&G siding is still in excellent shape and i have just finished scraping, sanding and priming with oil base primer.
Your input on our fastener issue will be greatly appreciated as we are excited for the new look, protection and “double-wall effect” to our home! Hi Bret, As noted in our article above, a 1″ to 2″ gap should be left between the bottom of fiber cement siding and a roof. Click on the installation instruction link for your brand of siding at the bottom of the article to find out more. It might be possible to trim the existing siding back with a circular saw, if you’re careful not to cut through the flashing behind it.
You would then need to prime and paint the bottom edges of the siding to prevent further deterioration. Good luck with your project! We built our home 8 yrs. Ago; its a 1-1/2 story Colonial style, with dormers. We recently noticed that where the dormers protrude from the roof the cement board siding is deteriorating at the area where the siding butts up against the asphalt shingles.
Should the siding butt against the shingles or should there have been some type of board or flashing used? We will have to tear off the cement board siding and replace it, and would like to know how to correctly remedy this. We live in NW Ohio, and deal with snow that sits on the roof in these dormer areas.
Our house is an old Hawaiian Plantation house built with single wall construction. The current particle board siding is made of some sort of compressed material that is starting to crumble apart. I want to replace it with HardiPlank.
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The problem is that the HardiPlank instructions state to use a 1.25” roofing nail. I tried some practice pieces and about 1/8 inch of the nail sticks through to the inside of the house. I would hate to have to grind down all those nails, plus I don’t think it would look very nice.
Any chance I could get away with using 1” nails instead since all nails are going directly into the wood walls of the house. The current siding, which is heavier than HardiPlank is attached with 3/4” nails. daniel Says. Danny: I have a 2000 sq ft colonial covered in 12 year old vinyl siding with foam board underneath.
Behind the foamboard is plywood, then 2X4’s spaced 1 ft apart. There is no insulation in the outer walls on the first floor, but insulation on the second floor. The house is in Connecticut.
I am adding 1000 sq ft to the house and want to install cement fiber board. Can I install over the foam board? Do I need to wrap the house? Should I insulate the bottom walls with blow in foam or is it not worth the cost due to minimal leakage with heat?
Lastly, my vinyl siding on North side grows green moss/mold. I powerwash every year and comes off. Does it grow just a easy on smooth cement board and should I paid with mold resistent paint?
Appreciate any help. Thanks and Regards Daren. Ben Erickson Says.